By Auguste Escoffier
If the paintings of Cookery in all its branches weren't under-
going a means of evolution, and if its canons may be once
and for ever mounted, as are these of convinced medical operations
and mathematical strategies, the current paintings could have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there exist already a number of excellent
culinary text-books within the English language. yet everything
is so volatile in those instances of growth at any fee, and social
customs and techniques of existence regulate so swiftly, few years
now suffice to alter thoroughly the face of usages which at
their inception bade reasonable to survive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed by way of the public.
In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it's but
twenty years in the past because the ancestral English customs all started to
make method earlier than the more moderen tools, and we needs to glance to the
great impetus given to vacationing by means of steam traction and naviga-
tion, with a view to account for the sluggish yet unquestionable
In the wake of the call for got here the availability. Palatial hotels
were equipped, luxurious eating places have been opened, either one of which
offered their consumers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such
Modern society shrunk the behavior of engaging of light
suppers in those areas, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do started to flock to them on
Sundays, which will supply their servants the necessary weekly
rest. And, due to the fact eating places permit of watching and of being
observed, due to the fact they're eminently tailored to the displaying of
magnificent clothes, it was once no longer lengthy sooner than they entered into
the lifetime of Fortune's favourites.
But those new-fangled behavior needed to be met via novel methods
of Cookery — ^better tailored to the actual setting in
which they have been to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised via the outdated Masters of the Culinary artwork of the pre-
ceding Century didn't turn into the sunshine and extra frivolous
atmosphere of eating places ; have been, in truth, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their shoppers who in simple terms had eyes for one another.
The pompous splendour of these bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, through liveried
footmen, was once half and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
It is eminently fitted to country dinners, that are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, owning their ritual, traditions, and —
one may perhaps even say — their excessive monks ; however it is an insignificant hin-
drance to the fashionable, fast carrier. The complex and
sometimes heavy menus will be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so universal these days; accordingly the necessity of a
radical switch not just within the culinary arrangements themselves,
but within the preparations of the menus, and the service.
Circumstances ordained that I may be one of many movers
in this revolution, and i should still deal with the kitchens of
two institutions that have performed so much to carry it about.
I hence enterprise to consider ebook containing a record
of the entire alterations that have come into being in kitchen paintings —
changes whereof i'm in a superb half author^may have some
chance of an outstanding reception by the hands of the general public, i.e.
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Additional resources for A guide to modern cookery
CHAPTER III The Small Compound Sauces — Remarks. In order that the classification of the small sauces should be clear and methodical, I divide them into three parts. The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second deals with the small white sauces and those suited to this part of the classification while the third is concerned with the ; English sauces. The Small Brown Sauces 31— SAUCE BIQARRADE This sauce is poeled ducklings. stock, the principally used to accompany braised and In the first case, the duckling's braising being thickened, constitutes a sauce.
I J lbs. of hare-trimmings. I old pheasant or 2 partridges. 4 oz. of sliced carrots, browned in Game Consomme. medium-sized leek and 2 sticks i bunch of herbs with extra thyme and bay leaves. onion, oven-browned, with 2 of celery. i cloves stuck into butter. it. mushrooms, likewise browned in butter. Liquor. Five and one-half quarts of water. Seasoning. One oz. of salt and a few peppercorns, these to be added ten minutes previous to straining the consomm^. Time allowed for cooking. Three hours.
The The sauce optional. it is slightly, but completed by it is rubbed through a tammy. consistence of sauces whose processes are identical with those of the Hollandaise may be varied at will ; number of yolks may be increased if a very thick sauce is desired, and it may be lessened in the reverse Also similar results may be obtained by cooking the eggs case. As a rule, if a thick sauce be required, the either more or less. yolks ought to be well cooked and the sauce kept almost cold for instance, the in the making.